Holubar Mountaineering: one of the very first Gear Pioneers

Please Note: All Material below, and in all my "History of Gear" webpages, is copyrighted, and no usage of my material is permitted unless explicit permission is granted by me, Bruce B. Johnson, owner of OregonPhotos.com. Much of the material below is derived from interviews and correspondence with ex-Holubar employees.... Editors: Please contact me if you have interest in publishing....Others: if you were involved with one of the old-line, vintage gear companies and have a story to tell in these pages, please contact me soon.....Sponsors: if your outdoor company is interested in sponsoring this site, please contact me for details.

BOOK ALERTS: My first book in a series about The History of Gear was about Frostline Kits. Please visit my FROSTLINE PAGE (click here) for a link to order it, or to view a free 15 page PDF preview. The second book was released May 20, 2008 and is titled, "GERRY, To Live in the Mountains" (click here). The third book of the series will cover the story of Holubar and is well underway. Later, I will pull together several of the smaller gear companies into one book, among them will be A16.

 

THE HOLUBARS: immediately after World War II, Colorado was a ripe market for a business targeted to mountaineers and skiers. Alice and Roy Holubar opened for business in 1946 or 1947, in Boulder, Colorado. Roy was also known as LeRoy Holubar.

They catered to the equipment needs of Roy's companions in Colorado Search and Rescue, and to the needs of the hundreds of 10th Mtn. troops who had either stayed, or migrated to Colorado after World War II... One climber from those early days remembers that you'd walk down a walkway at the Holubars' house, go through a gate into the backyard, and enter the basement via a stairway to find Alice hard at work sewing! Images: to the left, front cover of 1950 Holubar catalog; below, cover of the 1971 catalog.

Holubar Mountaineering co-holds with GERRY Mountaineering the title of the very first of the innovative outlets for modern climbing/camping gear in the United States.... In fact, Jack and Joan Stephenson of Warmlite were inspired personally by the Holubars upon the occasion of their 1955 honeymoon trip to Rocky Mountain National Park in Colorado. The couple had suffered through a cold, miserable trip until Roy and Alice took the youngsters into their Boulder home and "turned them on" to custom down gear of the highest order. The Stephensons returned to California inspired, and began their own "business in a basement" (Warmlite link).

Their influence did not stop with the Stepensons... In 1962 Bob Swanson rolled into Boulder looking for work. GERRY did not have work for him, but he found welcome with Alice and Roy at Holubar, and worked for them almost a year. Then he moved back to California, where he went to work for Trailwise, met George Marks there, and in 1965 the two of them founded Sierra Designs!

 

 

 

In the Holubar home, Alice, a German seamster by trade was "the brains of the outfit," according to Lou Barnes (see below). The image to the left is from the couple's 1950 catalog, which was their first one......Alice designed and sewed the featherweight bags out of the best quality down and enclosed the fluffy stuff in the cutting-edge modern new shell material called "nylon." Many detractors worried that the lightweight new material wouldn't be strong enough, and others were sure it wouldn't be downproof, but gradually over the years the detractors became believers, and by the late 60s everyone was packing sleeping bags made of nyon. At first Alice sewed with nylon that was war surplus parachute cloth, and in later years she used modern ripstop nylons. Roy was drawn into the business and became an importer of climbing/skiing gear from Europe; eg. Salewa, Grivel, Goldline rope, etc.

Author's personal Holubar connections--- as a poor college student in 1972, it took me a long time to save up enough money for a premium down bag, but when I finally had enough, the choice was clear, and I purchased one of Holubar's premium down bags, in a winter weight, for $137.00. Its 1.5 oz. ripstop nylon shell was a beautiful blue, and it was so sensuously soft, puffy and WARM that I left it out unpacked in the living room just to find excuses to feel it on a daily basis....Its name was "Royalight," which I found out years later was an acronym for "Roy," "Alice" and "lightweight." It was the perfect name choice for such a sleeping bag-- it was very light and it was worth a King's ransom and it was a bag to treat royalty with, oh, and it was a royal shade of blue to boot......I miss that bag! Keith Jimmerson (see below) still fondly owns and uses his Royalight bag, believing it has lost little of its impressive loft even after 30 years! John Whitbeck and his wife both still use their Royalight bags year-around..... Years before the Royalight bag, my very first Holubar product had been their A-framed Mountain Tent, which was the "Royalight," model I or II. It is seen below during a blizzard-plagued snowshoe trip in 1967. We found the tent to be cramped for two guys in winter conditions. Although strong, it did not use use modern, lightweight ripstop nylon in the canopy; instead it used Holubar's own creation, NP-22 (similar to 60/40 cloth, which came along many years after Holubar began using NP-22)... The NP-22 created a tent that was somewhat heavy and opaque-- thus the tent was very dark and glum inside at night or during stormy conditions... Years later, manufacturers wised-up to the use of cheerful orange and yellow tent canopies, which helped to prevent "tent fever" among expeditionary climbers trapped for days at a time in their tents by severe conditions.

 

Prominent Holubar "Firsts"

CONTRIBUTORS: Lou Barnes described to me many of the Holubar "firsts," and he should know. Lou is the former Merchandising Manager for Holubar, and was with the Company from 1973 to 1978. While Lou was with the Company, he scored several industry-wide firsts in design and product mix. A second contributor has been Bob Clemen, who worked several Holubar stores between 1976 and 1980, ending up managing the Colorado Springs store under Bob Peto. A third contributor has been Greg Grant, who knew Roy Holubar; Greg worked under John Whitbeck in the Boulder store, 1979-80, and went on to work from 1980-83 in the pseudo-Holubar store in Boulder that was really owned by The North Face! (see below). A fourth contributor has been Keith Jimmerson, who worked in the Denver store on Exposition from about 1969 through 1978. John Whitbeck has also been a contributor; John had managed the Boulder GERRY store on Pearl St, and then was hired by Jim Kack in late 1968, after Alice Holubar's death had led to Roy selling the company to Jim (see below). Most recently, I have spoken with Charlie Lincoln, who joined Holubar in 1973 and had risen to General Manager before North Face's take-over in the late 1970s. Even more recently, I have spoken with John Rutkowski, who was Store Manager at the Salt Lake City store, and later at the Glendale, CA store when Holubar bought the Kelty store there. After Holubar closed down its factory, John began Mountain Mend in Boulder, and did Holubar warranty work. Interestingly, he and Charlie got together at this time and sewed up the last dozen Ultimate bags (see image below); they used the nylon shells found when the factory closed down.

60/40 Cloth and classic "Mountain Parka"--- Oral history states that Alice was perhaps the first person in the U.S. to commericially sew and sell garments made of 60/40 cloth, such as the famed Holubar Mountain Parka; however, the most reputable sources state that Holubar used its own version which they called NP-22 cloth (22% nylon, 78% pima cotton, with the "NP" probably standing for "nylon-pima"). They sold many of the NP-22 parkas to Colorado Mountain Rescue... .Image: NP22 parka worn by author's relative in 1972, sporting the trademark optional leather shoulder rappel patch. ... Alice's use of a cotton/nylon blend in a shell parka design pre-dates the founding of Sierra Designs by about a decade (SD is well-known as the company which originated THE "60/40 Parka," in the late 1960s).... Keith J. relates that he donated one of Alice's early NP-22 mountain parkas to the Neptune Mountaineering Gear Museum. If you are in the Boulder area, the extensive gear/climbing museum put together by Gary Neptune is a true "MUST SEE."

 

 

Sleeping Bag Design: arguably, Alice Holubar, as one of the very first people in the USA working in nylon and down, created designs and set standards for everybody who was to follow. Among the firsts Holubar can claim are bags that draped the sleeper in a wonderful warm embrace due to the use of a purposefully non-differential cut. Alice also perfected the use of the "V" baffle and longitudinal baffle construction. Such inner construction, coupled with the innovative down-filled collar (the "Holubar Collar") made Holubar bags the preferred choice of many early Himalayan and Alaskan mountaineers during the 50s and 60s (before most of the big-name Companys like North Face or Sierra Designs had even opened their doors). Pictured is their top of the line expeditionary bag, from their 1975 catalog. This 40-below zero-rated monster contained 4 lbs. 3 oz. of superb down and is the only bag I have ever seen that was covered in an ultra-ultra light 0.75 oz. nylon.... In todays dollars, its price seems unbelievably low, a mere $215.00.

 

Down Insulated Clothing: Lou stated strongly, "Holubar Mountaineering, (was) a Boulder-native specialty retail chain and catalog house which manufactured possibly the best down-insulated clothing ever made." He described to me proudly the Holubar "Paragon Parka," which was a completely V-baffled expedition parka of the very highest caliber. With the beautiful baffling and a full 30 oz. of top-quality down, this parka was very popular in Antarctica, with Himalayan expeditions, and also was ordered by the military for some of their extreme outposts, such as on the DEW Line. This image of the Paragon is from the 1975 Holubar catalog, where this beauty cost only $155.00. You could also purchase a matching pair of fully V-baffled down pants for $110.00, which could be zipped into a toasty sleeping bag for your lower half!

Many of the Holubar designs are still so popular that when an example comes up on eBay, it gets many bidders and sells for a lot more than it cost when new, 30 years ago! As an example, a pair of ladies down-filled mittens recently sold for $32, with 8 bidders fighting over the privilege of owning them!

 

The End of Holubar

By 1979, Holubar had expanded into a chain of ten retail stores, with storefronts in Boulder, Denver, Fort Collins and two stores in Colorado Springs in Colorado. There were also five out-of-state locatons: Edina, Minnesota; Salt Lake City, Utah; Phoenix, Arizona; Tempe, Arizona; and Glendale, California. In addition to the stores, Holubar owned a large in-house manufacturing operation, and a huge kit-selling enterprise (Carikit) that had its own catalog (see image on page bottom , taken from 1978 kit catalog). This kit component challenged Frostline, the giant kit company of the times. And of course Holubar had a robust catalog sales division as well.....But only a year or two later, Holubar was gone forever.

It began when Alice Holubar passed away in March, 1968, of cancer (another date given was November 11). It wasn't long before Roy Holubar, a math professor at Colorado University, sold the company to a young man named Jim Kack from North Dakota (born 1941), a man who wasn't a climber but did enjoy fly fishing and other outdoor pursuits. Jim expanded the Company considerably, and by 1975 it caught the eye of Johnson Wax ("Pledge" wax, "Off" insect repellant; "Edge" shaving gel, among others). Johnson Wax was truly a corporate giant with many resources and talents, and it purchased Holubar at the same time it was busy buying up a number of other outdoor gear companies, eg. Eureka tents; Old Town Canoe, and Leonard Rod.

Unfortunately, Holubar did not thrive under Johnson Wax, although most seem to agree that it was no one's fault in particular. Huge amounts of effort were expended for about 4 years in trying to find a financially viable direction for the now-struggling company, but the end was nearing when Johnson Wax took semi-truck loads full of Holubar Kits to its Racine, Wisconsin headquarters in about 1980 and sold them out of the back of the trucks for pennies on the dollar. An economic recession was afoot in the U.S., fueling store closings at about the same time. Sometime in 1980, Johnson Wax made the hard decision to close down Holubar's remaining operations.

In a piece of serious irony, Lou Barnes, the ex-merchandising manager for Holubar, had switched careers and was in Boulder in 1980 working as a real-estate person. It was he who managed the sale of the Boulder holdings of Holubar, which included the retail store on 30th Ave., the Administration headquarters on 55th St., the warehouse, and the manufacturing plant. (Note: the original retail location prior to 30th Ave. had been a much smaller place on 13th St., across from Flatirons theater, a block off campus)..... The real estate proceeds went to the Company's corporate owner, Johnson Wax.......

Enter The North Face

The Pseudo-Holubar Days: The September 1981 "North Face Newsletter" proudly announced its acquisition of Holubar from Johnson Wax; Hap Klopp himself signed the landmark newsletter. The nine Holubar stores in three States, the Holubar name, and all the inventory became North Face's... Greg Grant remembers how The North Face swiftly established itself at the 30th Ave. main store in Boulder, but left all the Holubar signs in place (30th Ave. was the original Holubar store, and had originally also contained both headquarters and the sewing operation). Sometime in 1981, a planned shopping mall forced the closure of the original store, and pseudo-Holubar moved to South Broadway St., and was still using the Holubar name in 1983 when Greg left. ....Greg said, "We would receive North Face payroll checks, but our signs all said Holubar....no one would have known we were owned by the North Face unless we told them." This pseudo Holubar at first was selling many brand names,including actual old Holubar-made inventory, but later "Holubar" labelled garments were really being made by North Face in Berkeley, but in gradually diminishing numbers. It remains unclear at this point in my research exactly when "Holubar" labelled gear stopped being manufactured and sold by North Face. Eventually, though, the Holubar name seems to have been let to die by North Face. (The North Face itself was later absorbed by a major corporation, click here for details about its fate)

But former Colorado Springs Manager Bob Clemen has a final Holubar report, "One interesting twist -- when I was back in Colorado Springs in 1996 or so (I think), I discovered that a couple of people had resurrected and licensed the old original Holubar logo, and they had opened a Holubar store in one of the shopping centers there. No relation to the previous company except for the name and the logo. I have no idea if the store is still there." As a sidenote to this story, I will note that the Colorado government site that lists businesses and their registered names has NO listings for "Holubar," and those listings generally go back at least 15-20 years, so we can conclude sadly that "Holubar" as an official business name in Colorado is no more.

R.I.P. Holubar, 1946 to 1980, or shall we count the pseudo-Holubar as the real deal? In which case it becomes R.I.P. Holubar, 1946 to estimated 1985. But then again, maybe the ghost of Holubar is still alive and about to open a store somewhere in Colorado! You decide!

 

Gerry Cunningham (click for two full pages about GERRY) This innovator and climber also lived in the Boulder area. He was one of the very early pioneers, and founded his company in 1946, the same year as Holubar Mountaineering....... In any case, Gerry C. was a veteran of WW II and is now 84 years old (2006). At some point, probably in the Sixties, he opened his main store in Denver. Notes: "GERRY" is a well-known brand which has continued to produce gear, mostly clothing for skiers, for many decades. Gerry Cunningham himself resigned from the Company decades ago, and it is not yet clear to me how to explain labels such as those on the left which are in fairly recently made clothing and claim that the Company's location is in Seattle. Probably GERRY (the company) was long ago absorbed by a big corporation; that corporation's name may be "Outdoor Products Company.". (Source: emails with Gerry Cunningham)...

Please Note: All Material above, and in all my "History of Gear" webpages, is copyrighted, and no usage of my material is permitted unless explicit permission is granted by me, Bruce B. Johnson, owner of OregonPhotos.com. Some of the material above is derived from interviews and correspondence with ex-Holubar employees.... Editors: Please contact me if you have interest in publishing....Others: if you were involved with one of the old-line, vintage gear companies and have a story to tell in these pages, please contact me soon.

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Above is the front and back cover of the 1978 Holubar Mountaineering Ltd. Kit catalog. Shown are the famous "Flatirons," a climbing/hiking mecca right in the backyard of the Holubar offices/stores in Boulder. I will bet you money that the string of hikers are all Holubar employees! Can anyone identify any of these folks?

Page last revised 04/09/2008